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Chimay a organisé le mardi 30 septembre dernier une soirée de présentation de son nouveau livre "Histoire / Produits / Recettes". Ce dernier retrace l'histoire de la bière de Chimay, présente les bières brassées au sein de l'abbaye, mais surtout laisse une large place à la présentation de recettes de cuisine à base de bières et de fromages de Chimay. Ainsi rien de plus parlant qu'une soirée dégustation bières et fromage pour mettre en avant les différentes associations de ces deux produits : à chaque bière son fromage et toutes les combinaisons sont permises. Ça tombait bien : l'abstinent au fromage, le beergeek qui aurait déjà écrit cet article depuis longtemps et tweetman n'étaient pas dispo, nous avons donc pu profiter de cette soirée pour goûter pour vous bières et fromages et prendre notre temps pour écrire cet article.
Cette soirée s'est tenue dans la toute nouvelle piscine Molitor, fraîchement rénovée. Au sein de ce lieu mythique, à la frontière du 16ème arrondissement parisien et de Boulogne-Billancourt, la présentation s'est tenue dans la salle "street art", en référence au proche passé du lieu. Cette salle tente de proposer une ambiance à l'image de ce que le site a pu être, à l'apogée de son abandon et de son appropriation par des artistes éphémères.
Après une rapide introduction, présentation de la soirée et remerciements d'usage de Hugues Glatigny (Export Sales Manager Chimay France & USA), Jérôme Goffinet, responsable de la communication de Chimay et porte-parole Chimay a retracé l'histoire de la marque. En substance, la Chimay est une bière brassée au sein de l'abbaye Notre-Dame de Scourmont. Les moines divisent leurs temps en 8 heures de sommeil, 8 heures de prières et 8 heures de travail. Parmi ceux-ci, certains ont eu la bonne idée de brasser de la bière depuis 1850. La seconde guerre mondiale marque un tournant puisque la totalité du matériel brassicole a été récupéré par les allemands et fondu pour servir de munitions. Après la guerre, le redémarrage de la brasserie n'allait pas de soi. Il a fallut la ténacité du Père Théodore qui a coordonné la reconstruction de la brasserie, ainsi que la connaissance de Jean de Clerck, professeur à l'université de Louvain, et personnage influent de la bière du XXème siècle. Son influence sur la reprise de l'activité brassicole à Chimay a été telle qu'il fait parti du cercle restreint, avec sa femme, des non-moines enterrés à l'abbaye.
Outre sa recette traditionnelle, la bière de Chimay se distingue par une appellation trappiste, appellation qui doit respecter les trois règles suivantes : 1) la bière doit être brassée au sein de l'abbaye, 2) elle doit être brassée sous le contrôle de la communauté monastique, 3) les bénéfices doivent être dévolus à l'entraide sociale. Ces règles sont toujours d'actualité et constituent les valeurs fondamentales qu'affichent ces salariés, une raison supplémentaire, s'il devait y en avoir une, pour faire un métier passion.
Brassage, ferment, température, vieillissement, levure, fruité, herbacé ; ce vocabulaire utilisé pour la bière, l'est aussi... pour le fromage. C'est donc presque naturellement que l'on passe de l'un à l'autre. En effet, en parallèlement de leur activité brassicole, les moines produisent également quatre fromages différents, chacun enduit de l'une des quatre bières de Chimay. Ce sont des fromages au lait pasteurisé fabriqués selon une même base et vieillit différemment selon les recettes. Le fromage bleu de Chimay est même additionné de houblon.
Fromage et bière, c'est de ces deux produits dont il est question dans le livre et lors de cette conférence.
Il nous a donc été proposé la dégustation des quatre bières de Chimay et des quatre fromages correspondants : Chimay dorée et fromage doré, Chimay rouge et fromage de Chimay rouge, Chimay bleue et fromage de Chimay bleue et enfin Chimay triple et fromage vieux de Chimay. La dégustation de l'un comme de l'autre se fait d'abord par l'odorat avant le goût. Gouter la bière avec le fromage correspondant puis croiser les différentes expériences entre elles. On retiendra notamment la dégustation du fromage Chimay rouge avec la bière Chimay bleue.
La bière de Chimay dorée se distingue principalement par un goût de céréale et de miel ... très dilué et assez sucré en association avec un fromage dont la croûte est plutôt sableuse et la consistance élastique avec un goût de beurre frais. La bière de Chimay rouge se présente, elle, avec une mousse très crémeuse, un nez de fruit jaune et un goût plutôt lourd avec une légère amertume en fin de bouche ; le fromage en association se présente aussi avec une consistance très crémeuse, heureusement contre-balancée par une légère amertume. La Chimay bleue est de son côté plutôt sur une note touffue de banane cuite caramélisée associée à un fromage avec une pâte lactée. C'est surtout sa dégustation avec le fromage de Chimay rouge qui permet de lui révéler une note de noisette. Enfin, la Chimay Triple et sa mousse collante font sentir un nez de poire et une vraie amertume en fin de bouche ; le fromage vieux s'y associe parfaitement avec un goût de noisette.
Au final un expérience sensorielle intéressante mais rien de transcendant. Ces fromages à pâte molle sont sans grand intérêt par eux-mêmes mais les associations avec la bière apportent des arguments à la dégustation. A l'unanimité de nos deux voix, le fromage vieux de Chimay est plus corsé, avec un caractère affiné et boisé, qui, associé à la Chimay triple, a produit la meilleure expérience culinaire de la soirée.
La soirée s'est achevée par une discussion plus informelle avec les participants et les représentants de Chimay. On retiendra le caractère "artisanal" d'une bière produite et exportée à travers le monde. L'activité de l'abbaye est encore représentée par 16 moines mais aucun ne prend de part active à l'activité brassicole si ce n'est pour mettre en application les règles de la tradition trappiste.
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Bonjour,
Merci pour ce retour sur le livre.
Je me bats depuis toujours pour expliquer que la bière accompagne parfaitement le fromage ! Je suis heureux d'en avoir une preuve maintenant.
A quand la bière du mois avant cette période de nöel ? Pouvez-vous parler des bières de noel ?
Merci :-)
21/11/2014 à 17h59
Hello,
De rien ;)
Il va y avoir une bière du mois en décembre, mais ce ne sera pas une bière de noël.
27/11/2014 à 11h23
oui on peut la marier avec le fromage, ça fait aussi ressortir le gout de la bière.
21/2/2015 à 10h29
Merci de faire découvrir ce livre. ET j'invite les personnes à venir découvrir les paysages de la région. De beaux endroits à découvrir. A 2 pas de Treignes, ou encore du lac de Virelles, cette région est exceptionnelle.
15/1/2018 à 11h11
L'abbaye de Chimaye est reconnue pour être une référence en matière de vieillissement de la bonne bière qui donne vraiment envie de la déguster; par comparaison aux bières que j'ai pu goûter dans des caves souterraines lyonnaises par exemple je dirais qu'il n'y a pas photo !
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Des caves, toujours des cavent qui montrent le potentiel de l'agriculture et du monumental russe.
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