et autres outils de main-mise brassicole
Nicolas, Pierre & Benj - 21/04/2016
A notre grand étonnement, Heineken a convié Guide Bière à assister à une demi-finale de leur concours de biérologie.
Concours de biérologie
Quand on a reçu l'invitation d'Heineken à venir à une dégustation animée par Hervé Marziou, dans le cadre du concours de biérologie, on a d'abord cru à une blague. On s'est dit que la boîte de com' qui nous avait invité n'avait jamais lu Guide-Biere (bon, là-dessus, on n'avait pas tort).
Mais en fait non, c'était une vraie invitation.
On est curieux, mais on a hésité.
Mais bon, la bouffe était gratuite aussi. Pis on avait envie de rigoler.
L'accueil a été très provoquant de leur part, puisqu'on nous a proposé, à 11h30 du matin, de boire une Heineken. On a vu venir le piège, on a refusé.
Autant vous dire : ils étaient contents qu'on soit là, sur la dizaine de personnes attendues, nous étions quatre. Un journaliste de Radio Accord (bien au taquet), nous et un homme inconnu.
Hervé Marziou a fait sa carrière dans les rangs d'Heineken en tant que spécialiste de la dégustation notamment pour animer ce genre d'évènements. Aujourd'hui "biérologue" indépendant, il met souvent la bière artisanale en avant même s'il continue de faire des missions pour son ancien employeur. Et là, il a joué le jeu, et après quelques présentations, a commencé à servir des Heineken dans des verres de dégustation (si, c'est vrai, promis). Et nous a confié, que si on était fort en dégustation, ou pouvait y sentir du pamplemousse.
Nous on se sentait bien cons, et on était super frustrés, de pas pouvoir nous marrer.
Je vous passe les plus grandes étapes, mais concrètement ce jour-là, Hervé Marziou, même s'il est certainement très compétent sur la dégustation, a joué au bon petit soldat de la grande industrie.
Nous, promis on a été sages, on s'est pliés au jeu de boire de la Fischer ambrée, de l'Edelweiss à la pêche blanche, et autres produits gourmets, en faisant semblant d'écouter le discours prémâché. On voulait vraiment assister jusqu'au bout à cette mascarade (où précisons, nos hôtes ont été bien gentils et souriants). Le tout en tentant des accords gourmands avec des fromages fins, des foie gras, des poissons fumés, des jambons secs et autres gourmandises qui valaient le coup, elles.
Évidemment, on s'y attendait, cette dégustation était un gros coup de com', rendue un peu ridicule par le nombre de présents, et par l'insistance des salariés de la boite de com' pour que Hervé Marziou aborde les thématiques qu'on lui avait demandé de préparer (alors que nous, on tentait de lui poser des questions intéressantes, et ça c'est con). On aura eu quelques échanges sympas avec lui cela dit. Même si on aura appris qu'une Fischer ambrée, c'est très revigorant parce que riche en oligo-éléments et autre bizarreries type rebouteux.
Bref, on va pas se mentir, ils ont tenté de nous bourrer le mou.
Puis, on est allé faire un tour au concours, organisé au sein d'un salon de la grande restauration, ou toutes les grandes marques étaient venu pour faire leur promo.
Ici, 4 épreuves, 4 binômes de jury.
- Une épreuve de dégustation à l'aveugle (où Robert Dutin faisait goûter de la Fischer ambrée) à l’intérieur d'un verre opaque.
- Une épreuve de service de Heineken pression.
- Une épreuve de cocktail avec un peu de Heineken.
- Et enfin, une épreuve de type conseil sommelier, avec quelle bière de la gamme Heineken je peux boire en mangeant ce plat de ce restaurant 3 étoiles.
Bref, un concours de biérologie où toute la palette des bières françaises et mondiales est représentée. Où le travail des artisans est valorisé, où on promeut le savoir-faire, la finesse, la diversité. (humhum)
Bon bah, voilà, on n'a pas eu de chèque nous, du coup on vous propose pas de relire avant de publier, Monsieur Heineken ?
La main-mise des industriels sur la restauration
Ce concours, c'est un des piliers du contrôle du secteur hôtel - restauration - café par les grands groupes brassicoles (Heineken - Carlsberg/Kro - AB-inbev/SABMiller qui se partagent la quasi totalité du marché français et pas loin de la moitié du marché mondial).
Ainsi, on peut dénombrer les piliers suivants :
- S’immiscer dans la formation des futurs sommelier par le biais de ce concours qui délivre une vision ultra tronquée de la bière. Vision que ces "meilleurs sommeliers de la bière" garderont pendant des années. (D'ailleurs cette vulgarisation tronquée voire totalement fausse est disponible à la lecture pour ceux qui s'ennuient sur leur site Tendance Bière).
- Inventer un lien étroit entre la bière industrielle et la haute gastronomie via des évènements tel que celui-ci (clic) (écolos, vous noterez aussi la petite touche greenwashing) ou par des publicités s'appuyant sur des chefs étoilés qui vont jusqu'à inventer des recettes pour accompagner ou cuisiner avec telle ou telle pale lager ou énième bière aromatisée (Kro a son site aussi avec tout ça). Dans la même veine, on a le mécénat d'association de restaurateurs.
- Contrôler les réseaux de distribution, comme le leader France Boisson qui n'est autre que Heineken. Et, plus inquiétant et récent : la prise de contrôle sur des acteurs de la distribution de bière artisanale : Saveur-bière par AB-InBev.
- Créer un lien de dépendance monétaire via les contrats de brasseurs qui, se substituant à des prêts classiques, permettent aux restaurants d'obtenir du matériel (tireuses, télés, babyfoot, tapis de bars, verres...) et des services (entretien tireuses) contre une exclusivité (et un surcoût pouvant être hyper important pour des établissements ayant peu de débit) de leur bière en pression.
Et je ne parle pas des actions de com' grand public (pubs, partenariat festivals, H-cup...)
On ne peut pas se plaindre qu'Heineken essaie de vendre ses produits, on peut plaindre les élèves-hôteliers qui se retrouvent coincés dans cette machine de guerre.
Et on peut dire du mal de ces chefs réputés les meilleurs qui promeuvent des bières pasteurisées dans lesquelles les additifs sont monnaie courante et qui d'un point de vue gustatif sont loin de représenter le meilleur ni même le pouillième de l'éventail des saveurs brassicoles. Ça, ça me fait toujours aussi mal que quand on en avait déjà parlé il y a deux ans.
À cette machine de guerre s'oppose du côté artisanal une certaine faiblesse dans le domaine : à part les bars-restaurants et quelques restos qui mettent vraiment la bière en avant, les restos sont souvent laissés de côté dans la prospection des brasseurs artisanaux. En effet ce sont des cibles compliquées : les volumes sont peu importants, les patrons peu intéressés (notamment grâce aux piliers listés ci-dessus).
À l'heure où les microbrasseurs organisent leur union professionnelle, voici une problématique à prendre en compte : comment apporter la vision de la bière artisanale dans le milieu de la gastronomie ?
Un concours national de sommellerie de la bière ne devrait-il pas être une organisation ne relevant pas que d'un brasseur mais plutôt d'une fédération de brasseurs ?
Alors bien sûr, si c'est les petits brasseurs qui organisent, il n'y aura pas le resto-gastro gratuit pour les blogueurs. Mais honnêtement, on préfère payer.
Bonus : Rigolons avec tendance bière
On commente pas trop, ça s'en passe !
Source de l'ensemble des impressions écrans : www.tendancesbiere.fr
La vulgarisation, un métier dangeureux : 
Au bout d'un moment, c'est bien connu : les bières blondes ont le choix entre deux saveurs : saveur Heineken et saveur Affligem :
Toi aussi propage les fausses idées sur la bière contre lesquelles on se bat depuis des années :
Faut pas se moquer, ça a été écrit par un sourd qui n'a plus de sensation de toucher au niveau de la langue
Du coup le verre droit d'Heineken il est pas optimal ?
Le thème du prochain film de Nolan : comment respecter les trois principes en même temps. Nœuds au cerveau garantis : 
Recommandez cette page :
Les internautes commentent :
AL
[site]Excellent article !
Et heureux voir même soulagé de voir qu'Heineken et autres brasseries maison se soucient toujours autant du savoir faire, de la qualité ainsi et surtout de ses clients !
Hourra ! Je vais aller m'ouvrir une Corona pour fêter ça !
22/4/2016 à 15h16
Soabstract
[site]Le sketch !
Vive les micro brasseries indépendantes & passionnées !
11/5/2016 à 22h08
moto
[site]sur le ton de l'humour, c'est sympa à lire ;)
merci pour cet article !
10/2/2017 à 13h36
Slevina
[site]Je suis heureux de constater que la biérologie se développe aussi bien.
31/8/2017 à 13h20
Claude
[site]Excellent l'article,
Heineken reste toujours une référence en la matière et c'est toujours avec plaisir de s'y associer et de déguster une bonne bière.
J'espère pouvoir participer dans un futur proche à de tels concours.
Merci
Claude
12/11/2017 à 15h43
Mila
[site]Votre article est sympa et j'aurais bien aimé participé à ce concours en bierologie. Déjà rien que le titre est une belle expérience je trouve ahah. Bonne continuation et je ne manquerais pas de lire vos prochains articles. Salut.
Mila.
22/11/2017 à 23h05
Choco
[site]Super cool l'article. Et c'est amusant de voir un site sur la bière autre qu'un site en .be lol
4/12/2017 à 20h13
Clio
[site]Bien vu, la dégustation à l'aveugle, un vrai test sans préjugé. Donne envie de prendre une biere, vite, mais une vraie.
16/12/2017 à 20h53
Sosogrub
[site]Très intéressant comme concept qu'est la bierologie. Je ne connaissais pas. Merci pour l'information.
4/2/2018 à 14h38
anneboucleur
[site]merci pour cet article
j'aimerais bien participé au concours
12/2/2018 à 19h05
anneboucleur
[site]merci pour cet article
j'aimerais bien participé au concours
12/2/2018 à 19h06
Router
[site]super cool prévenez nous quand un autre concours de ce genre sera organisé j'aimerais bien participer
23/2/2018 à 13h10
Gabri
[site]Je suis heureux de constater que la biérologie se développe aussi bien.
5/4/2018 à 10h20
Adrian
[site]Le sketch !
Vive les micro brasseries indépendantes & passionnées !
5/4/2018 à 10h23
Albert83
[site]En avant les brasseries indépendantes ! Je soutiens la Part-Faite de Marseille !!!
6/4/2018 à 6h13
Ceram
[site]Un vrai puit de savoir pour la fabrication d'une bonne bière artisanale. C'est vrai qu'on est loin de l'industrie, mais au final fabriquer une bière et bien plus qu'un simple loisir c'est une véritable culture et même un challenge de tous les instants.
10/5/2018 à 20h47
Sarah
[site]Merci beaucoup, je compte aussi faire ma propre bière et ce concours me donne de bonnes idées.
15/5/2018 à 11h29
Un guignol
[site]Joli article qui prend position. Écris avec humour. Si un jour vous avez des invitations en trop. Offrez-les à vos visiteurs.
7/8/2018 à 18h58
femmes russe
[site]La magie de l'instant de se retrouver autour d'une bonne bière !
10/8/2018 à 11h56
Extracteurs de jus
[site]Face à tout ce qu'on peut trouver dans les commerces de grande distribution, la bière artisanale reste le top.
Dommage qu'il n'y ait pas plus d'initiative comme la votre pour les faire connaitre.
29/8/2018 à 11h52
Stop rayon
[site]Quand je vois tutes ces bières dans les rayons des hypermarchés, je préfère choisir une bière artisanale.
2/9/2018 à 16h37
Fouineteau
[site]Super ces concoures avec de bons produits dont on connaît le mode de fabrication. Bravo à vous§
2/9/2018 à 16h39
Shazzam
[site]Que du bonheur de déguster une bonne bière toute en regardant ses bots fonctionner. Super concours.
2/9/2018 à 16h42
Delabièreetduvin
[site]Rien de tel qu'une bonne bière, c'est vraiment une boisson que l'on peut boire en toute saison et dans toutes les circonstance. Un peu comme le vin rouge.
20/9/2018 à 22h05
Rat Domestique
[site]Pourvu qu'il n'y ait pas de rat domestique ou de souris domestique pour percer les alambics de bière.
26/9/2018 à 22h59
Lucile
[site]Une vraie recette poNous sommes loin de l'industrie, mais au final fabriquer une bière et bien plus qu'un simple loisir c'est une véritable culture et même un challenge de tous les instants. A déguster sans modération. Merci encore
1/10/2018 à 17h18
Bernard
[site]Très intéressant comme concept qu'est la bierologie. Je ne connaissais pas. Merci pour l'information.
7/10/2018 à 22h59
Coruscant
[site]Possible de conduire un drone caméra après avoir bu une bonne bière allemande?
11/10/2018 à 10h32
Dam
[site]Merci pour l'article ! Je viens personnellement de me mettre au brassage de ma première bière, j'attend les résultats ! Impatient :)
11/10/2018 à 18h16
Alain
[site]Intéressant, en plus il parait que la bière est bénéfique en petite quantité pour faire baisser la tension grâce à l'action des levures de houblon.
23/10/2018 à 14h30
Franck
[site]Merci pour les informations, je ne brasse pas encore, mais j'y songe et effectue beaucoup de recherche sur Google dans cette optique, d'où mon passage ici...
15/11/2018 à 7h28
François
[site]je crois que c'est plus simple de fabriquer le vin soi-même que la biere, surtout avec le processus de fermentation
2/12/2018 à 1h31
Jacky
[site]je suis surpris qu'un article en rapport avec la bière génère autant de commentaires tous plus intéressants les uns que les autres. Mais pour moi la meilleure bière est en Russie.
2/12/2018 à 1h34
bernard
[site]je brasse ma propre bière depuis 1999 et je peux dire que maintenant je suis arrivé à un niveau d'expertise exceptionnel. Je souhaite même commencer la commercialisation de mes 2 sortes de Bière.
3/12/2018 à 21h59
Sabine
[site]j'avais jamais compris pourquoi la forme du verre de pelfort était comme cela ;)
30/12/2018 à 15h58
Clement
[site]C'est triste de voir les petits artisans périrent au profit de plus gros producteur de bière...
10/1/2019 à 18h34
Extracteurs de jus
[site]Très intéressant comme article ! Les bières artisanales ont encore de beaux jours devant elles.
Merci.
13/1/2019 à 19h58
Baptiste
[site]J'ai gouté une biere locale qui s'appelait la page 24 je recommande vivement, nettement meilleur que les bieres commerciales...
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